Comfort and Joy

Starred review from August 21, 2023
“Vegetables are the soul of the kitchen” asserts restaurateur Bhogal (Jikoni) in this scrumptious collection inspired by memories of her grandfather’s farm in Kenya and her British Indian mother’s kitchen in England. These indulgent recipes elevate vegetables to star status, using diverse global flavors and nourishing ingredients to create “crave-able vegetarian food,” including gobble-worthy snacks, deep-fried goodies, and enticing entrées. Roasted carrot and goat’s yoghurt dip with toasted fennel and hazelnuts comes together easily in a blender, while more involved dishes include spiced potato skins stuffed with aloo chaat, avocado, and sweet n’ sour date tamarind chutney. Rich breads, such as tear-apart pesto and sun-dried tomato babka, and spicy cauliflower cheese parathas (flatbreads), are portable family favorites. Heartening pasta dishes include a lasagna with roasted squash, kale, walnuts, and sage. Mango and golden coin (chickpea dumpling) curry is made for comfort, while salads and sides feature charred melon, roasted beets, and plenty of greens. For dessert, mango-misu is a light, creamy riff on tiramisu. Bhogal’s meticulous, beautifully written recipe notes bring childhood memories of family meals to life and relate the joy of meat-free cuisine for all home cooks. This is a winner.

September 1, 2023

A celebration of vegetarian options sets this apart from other cookbooks. Bhogal (Jikoni) promises dishes that nourish while bringing joy, with vegetables taking center stage. This array of Indian-inspired dishes with a fusion twist--like pea kofta Scotch eggs, and cacio e pepe chickpea, orzo, and kale soup--is designed to take cooks from weeknights to dinner parties. The chapters include an introduction by Bhogal, and cover dips, salsas, hummus, and relishes; fries, fritters, croquetas, and bhajis; breads and pancakes; soups, dhal, and khitchadi; rice and grains; pasta and noodles; curries and stews; salads, vegetables, bakes and sides; condiments, chutneys, and pickles; and cakes, desserts, and puddings. Some ingredients may be hard to find, depending on the region, but most will likely be available at the local grocery store if not already in a well-stocked pantry. Some recipes require more skill than others, but the options are plentiful. VERDICT Full of savory vegetarian recipes with an Indian flavor profile that are perfect for flavor-seeking foodies.--Gricel Dominguez

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